‘Silent killers’: How AI start-ups are trying to solve one of the retail industry’s biggest problems


Moment Makers Group | Istock | Getty Images

It pinches here; drags there; the draping is wrong. These are some of the examples of the feedback a new crop of artificial intelligence apps might give a prospective customer trying on clothing ahead of a purchase, and in the process reduce the chances of a product being returned to a store.

Fashion retailers are increasingly turning to AI to solve the issue of rising product returns, a persistent drag on profitability and something many in the industry refer to as the industry’s “silent killer”.

A growing number of AI start-ups have emerged to provide virtual try-on technology, allowing potential customers to visualize fit and style before they buy.

While tech companies have attempted to solve online fit issues since the 2010’s, the rapid development of generative AI has finally made these applications good enough to meaningfully impact retailers’ bottom lines. 

The U.S. National Retail Federation late last year estimated that 15.8% of annual retail sales were returned in 2025, totaling $849.9 billion. For online sales, that number jumped to 19.3%. Gen Z is driving this trend, with shoppers aged 18 to 30 averaging nearly eight online returns per person last year, the NRF found.

Most returned items never make it back to the shelves and often cost the retailer more to process than the value of the refund itself. It’s a multibillion-dollar problem for the industry that’s eating directly into companies’ margins.

“Figuring out how to proactively use returns and then how to minimize them can be a meaningful driver of business and profitability,” Guggenheim Senior Managing Director Simeon Siegel told CNBC.

While fit technology will never be as good as trying something on in person, it’s a great way to bridge the gap, Siegel said. “It’s going to continue to get better, I think that’s going to continue to reduce returns.”

Mirror-like realism?

The primary reason for returns and abandoned shopping carts is uncertainty over fit, Ed Voyce, founder and CEO of AI startup Catches, told CNBC in an interview.

Catches has developed a platform that allows users to create a “digital twin” to try on clothes virtually with what it calls “mirror-like realism.” The application went live last month on luxury brand Amiri’s website for a select range of clothes.

Unlike other models that Voyce says “just look pretty,” the Catches platform incorporates the physics of fabric texture and how material interacts with a moving body.

‘Silent killers’: How AI start-ups are trying to solve one of the retail industry’s biggest problems

Protecting the margin

Meanwhile, ASOS recently highlighted a stark improvement in profitability, partly driven by a 160 basis point reduction in its returns rate.

The online fast fashion player has been experimenting with virtual try-ons in partnership with deep-tech startup AIUTA, allowing prospective customers to see a piece of clothing on a range of body types, heights, and skin tones. ASOS, however, cautions that the tool is designed to give general guidance and that customers must still check size guides before purchasing. 

Shopify, meanwhile, has integrated startup Genlook’s AI virtual try-on app into its commerce platform, which it says “removes sizing doubts, boosts buyer confidence and drives higher conversion rates while reducing costly returns.” 

Tech giants like Amazon, Adobe, and Google have also created virtual try-ons in various shapes and forms, partnering with major brands to roll out the technology. 

From April 30, Google’s virtual try-on tech can be accessed directly within product search results across Google platforms, according to Google Labs’ website. 

What Gap's Gemini AI partnership says about the future of retail

As for Catches, it projects that its app can drive a 10% increase in conversions and a 20- to 30-times return on investment for brand partners. It focuses on luxury brands because of their higher price point. The startup hasn’t yet put a number on how much returns might decline with the use of its platform, but targets “massive reductions.”

Not a fix-all solution

“There are certainly companies that have absolutely seen benefits – figuring out how to quantify them is more difficult,” said Siegel. 

While the benefits are clear, the analyst cautions that AI is not a magic wand. Beyond fit, retailers are looking at AI for inventory management, customer targeting, and fraud prevention.

“All of those are really interesting use cases, as long as companies don’t abandon who they are,” Siegel says.

“What you sell is always going to be more important than how you sell, and so I just think remembering that will help dictate who wins and benefits and amplifies from AI versus who gets consumed by it.”

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Italy investigates Sephora and Benefit over skincare marketing to children


A view of a Sephora beauty product store on May 30, 2025 in Sherman Oaks, California.

Justin Sullivan | Getty Images

Italian regulators are looking to clamp down on the tween skincare obsession and are investigating the LVMH-owned cosmetic brands Sephora and Benefit over an “insidious” marketing campaign to children.

The Italian Competition Authority (AGCM) said Friday that it has launched investigations into the two cosmetic brands centred on “unfair commercial practices,” which saw children and young people, even those under the age of 10, being encouraged to purchase serums, masks, and anti-ageing creams.

The regulator said the marketing is fuelling behavior known as “cosmeticorexia,” which refers to an unhealthy fixation on skincare amongst minors.

It emphasized that both Sephora and Benefit had failed to appropriately label products or omitted at times important precautions on products not intended for use by minors, both in-store and online on social media, which could cause serious harm to their health.

Additionally, AGCM said the popular cosmetic brands employed an “insidious marketing strategy” which involved young micro-influencers promoting other young people to buy their products.

AGCM officials and the Italian financial police carried out inspections of the premises of Sephora Italia, LVMH Profumi e Cosmetici Italia, and LVMH Italia on Thursday.

Italy investigates Sephora and Benefit over skincare marketing to children

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LVMH said Sephora, Benefit, and LVMH P&C Italy had been notified of the investigation.

“As the investigation is ongoing, Sephora, Benefit and LVMH P&C Italy cannot share further comments at this stage, they express their willingness to fully cooperate with the authorities,” LVMH said in a statement to CNBC. “All the companies reaffirm their strict compliance with applicable Italian regulations.”

Sephora boasts nearly 23 million followers on Instagram and over 2 million followers on TikTok, with the beauty brand at the center of tween beauty trends.

The “Sephora kids” social media trend has gained traction over the past few years, with viral videos on TikTok and Instagram showing stores flooded with teenage girls loading up their baskets with brightly-coloured and fun-looking skincare products.

In some videos, young girls show off their skincare routines with products containing anti-ageing ingredients like retinol.

A CBS News analysis of 240 skincare posts from teen influencers on TikTok found that many of the videos hadn’t been properly tagged as promotional content, with only 15 videos, or just 6% of posts, doing so. This means many content creators may unintentionally be advertising products to unsuspecting children.

One teen skincare influencer, Embreigh Courtlyn, told CBS that some brands would ask her not to label videos with “#ad,” which could be off-putting to viewers, but instead be referred to as partners, which would enable the content to perform better.

A peer-reviewed study published by Northwestern University in June last year reviewed 100 popular skincare videos posted by influencers aged 7 to 18 years old. It found that only a quarter of the videos included sunscreen, while the top 25 most viewed videos had an average of 11 and a maximum of 21 potentially irritating active ingredients.

Social media bans

Tracking Europe's approach to social media bans for teenagers
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Flights are already getting more expensive after jet fuel spike. When should you book?


Travelers wait in line at a Transportation Security Administration (TSA) checkpoint at William P. Hobby Airport in Houston, Texas, US, on Monday, March 9, 2026.

Mark Felix | Bloomberg | Getty Images

The surge in fuel prices since the U.S. and Israel attacked Iran nearly two weeks ago is already driving up airfare. Consumers’ appetite for travel this year will dictate just how much.

Cathay Pacific on Thursday said it would roughly double fuel surcharges on tickets starting March 18.

Earlier this week, Australia’s Qantas said it is raising fares to help cover its costs, Scandinavian Airlines said the “unusually rapid and substantial increase” in fuel prompted it to raise prices, and Air New Zealand pulled its financial outlook “until fuel markets and operating conditions stabilise,” adding that it has made “initial fare adjustments.”

“If the conflict leads to continued elevated jet fuel costs, the airline may need to take further pricing action and adjust its network and schedule as required,” Air New Zealand said.

U.S. airline CEOs and other executives will update investors on Tuesday at the J.P. Morgan Industrials Conference in Washington, D.C.

Analysts expect an earnings hit at least in the first quarter if not the first half of the year, though the impact will depend on how long higher fuel prices last.

“We think a hit to 1Q EPS appears almost certain at this point,” UBS airline analysts Atul Maheswari and Thomas Wadewitz wrote in a note last week.

United Airlines CEO Scott Kirby said last week on the sidelines of an event at Harvard University that higher fares were likely on the way because of the surge in fuel prices.

Kirby said travel demand is still strong, however. Two other senior airline executives at U.S. carriers, speaking on the condition of anonymity because they weren’t authorized to speak to media, also said travel demand has held up. If those trends persist, it could give airlines more pricing power, but that will depend on the war’s duration.

“Airlines never met a higher fare they didn’t want,” said Scott Keyes, founder of flight deal company Going, previously known as Scott’s Cheap Flights.

So what should consumers do?

Keyes said travelers can’t lose by booking early, as long as they’re not buying restrictive basic economy tickets. That way, customers can try to exchange or cancel their tickets and buy cheaper ones if airfare ends up falling.

“If you book a $500 summer flight today, and two weeks from now the price drops to $350, you can call up the airline and get the $150 difference back as a credit. Heads you win; tails the airlines lose,” he said.

Read more about the Middle East conflict’s travel impact

Fuel costs

Jet fuel is airlines’ biggest cost after labor, accounting for about a fifth or more of expenses, depending on the airline.

United alone spent $11.4 billion last year on fuel, at an average price of $2.44 a gallon, according to a securities filing. U.S. jet fuel on Wednesday was going for $3.78 a gallon, according to Platts.

Jefferies airline analyst Sheila Kahyaoglu said in a note Thursday that she expects “the most acute financial impact to airlines from surging oil prices to be in the next 30-90 days as airlines have been booking yields for close-in flights assuming a much lower fuel price and carriers cannot retroactively raise fares.”

She said Delta Air Lines and United, which produce most U.S. airline profits, are better positioned than other carriers because of their high-end demand. Risks to demand, particularly for more price-sensitive customers, include the recent jump in gasoline prices.

Jet fuel has more than doubled in some regions since the first U.S.–Israel attacks on Iran on Feb. 28.

Oil prices surged to roughly four-year highs after the initial strikes. Energy prices have swung wildly since then as traders assess just how long the war — and all the logistics headaches — could last.

U.S. jet fuel prices were up more than 60% from before the attacks to a peak last week, according to pricing data assessed by Platts. Jet fuel can rise by a greater degree than crude because it includes the price of processing and ever-more difficult and costly transportation from oil fields to refineries to airplane fuel tanks.

On Feb. 27, the day before the before the attacks, the cost to fill the fuel tanks of a Boeing 737-800 would have would have been about $17,000 based on average prices in New York, Houston, Chicago and Los Angeles, compiled by Argus. Less than a week later, on March 5, it would have cost more than $27,000, based on Argus prices. On Tuesday, after oil prices fell following President Donald Trump’s comment that the Iran war could end “very soon,” it would have cost around $23,000.

Line Service Technician Austin Beadles refuels a plane using a Federal Aviation Administration approved unleaded aviation fuel at Sheltair at Rocky Mountain Metropolitan Airport in Broomfield on Tuesday, Feb. 17, 2026. Sheltair, a fixed-base operator, will offer the Swift UL94 unleaded aviation alternative gas to pilots. (Photo by Matthew Jonas/MediaNews Group/Boulder Daily Camera via Getty Images)

Matthew Jonas | Boulder Daily Camera | MediaNews Group | Getty Images

After prior fuel price surges, airlines started making customers pay for bags — or charging them more. Even seemingly minor changes in weight can save airlines hundreds of thousands, if not millions of dollars, a year in fuel. United in 2018 changed to a lighter paper stock for its in-flight magazine. In 2014, American Airlines said it would switch to digital manuals for flight attendants, following changes for pilots. It said at the time that it would save $650,000 in fuel a year.

All about capacity

High fuel prices don’t automatically mean higher fares. The ongoing strong demand for travel is a key factor and so is capacity, or the amount that carriers fly.

If airlines raise fares and passengers balk, then capacity will likely go down in the form of fewer frequencies on a route or broader cuts, in more severe cases.

“Airlines love to say fuel is expensive so you have to pay more. What they’re doing is they’re setting the expectation,” said Courtney Miller, founder of Visual Approach Analytics, an airline industry advisory firm. “They price to prevent empty seats.”

If fuel prices come down, “they’re not suddenly saying ‘We’re making too much money,'” Miller added. “But they are likely to add another flight.”

Capacity, especially to and from the Middle East, is constrained because of airspace closures and other stop-and-start flights. More than 46,000 flights have been canceled to and from the region since the Feb. 28 attacks began, aviation data firm Cirium said.

Flights are already getting more expensive after jet fuel spike. When should you book?

Those constraints are driving up fares as well as demand, as United’s Kirby said, from regions where customers are looking for alterative routes.

Airspace closures are also requiring airlines to take longer, more fuel-guzzling routes, but many have strong demand, too.

Qantas, for example, told CNBC that its flight from Perth, Australia, to London is temporarily stopping in Singapore to refuel, allowing it to pick up another 60 customers, and that its Perth-London and Perth-Paris routes are more than 90% full this month, 15 percentage points higher than normal for this time of year.

Finnair said the increased demand for travel to Asia from Helsinki has pushed up its prices by 15% on average.

“The impact of higher fuel prices will be reflected in market fares with a delay, as airlines typically hedge at least part of their fuel purchases,” it said.

Airlines have been grappling with airspace closures for years, including from on-and-off conflict in the Middle East and since Russia’s 2022 invasion of Ukraine, that have left a large swath of airspace out of use for many carriers.

‘You can’t dry up an airport’

Travelers at William P. Hobby Airport in Houston, Texas, US, on Monday, March 9, 2026.

Mark Felix | Bloomberg | Getty Images

Kirby said there would likely be an impact to United’s first-quarter results and to the second quarter if the war — and blockage of the Strait of Hormuz, a key shipping channel — persists. However, he said demand was increasing sharply from regions that have been affected by the thousands of flight cancellations and airspace closures in the Middle East.

Because of airlines’ upbeat outlooks on demand to start the year, “the environment is conducive for passing along fare increases. Further, should jet fuel stay higher for longer, it should help push off-peak capacity lower,” supporting unit revenues, UBS analysts said.

Rick Joswick, who heads of near-term oil research and analytics at S&P Global Energy, told CNBC that “demand for jet fuel is inelastic. You cannot shortchange an airport. If the cost of jet fuel goes up, it’s not like the plane will choose not to fly that day.

“You can’t dry up an airport,” he said.

Read more CNBC airline news

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Sportswear giant Adidas drops 8% after profit guidance disappoints


The logo of Adidas is seen on a Gazelle sneaker for sale at a shop in Berlin, Germany, May 2, 2024.

Lisi Niesner | Reuters

Shares of Adidas fell as much as 8% on Wednesday after providing a disappointing 2026 outlook, as it grapples with unfavorable currency swings and a hit from U.S. tariffs.

The German sportswear company sees 2026 revenue growth in the high single digits from 2025’s total of 24.8 billion euros ($28.86 billion).

Operating profit is expected to increase to around 2.3 billion euros, despite a 400 million euro negative impact from U.S. tariffs and unfavorable currency developments.

The profitability outlook “will disappoint” investors, as it was 15% below overall expectations, said RBC Capital Markets analysts. “The question will be how conservative is the EBIT guidance given adidas’ preferred approach to be prudent at the start of the year,” they added.

An implied 9% margin from operating profit of 2.3 billion euros is well shy of expectations, Jefferies analyst James Grzinic said.

Fourth-quarter sales and profit both slightly missed the mark at 6.1 billion euros and 164 million euros in constant currencies, respectively, according to FactSet estimates. 

“Driving double-digit growth in the fourth quarter despite all the external turbulence, and more than doubling our operating profit in the quarter made the year end very well,” said Adidas CEO Bjørn Gulden.

Adidas also presented mid-term targets on Wednesday, seeing currency-neutral sales growing at a high single-digit rate in 2026-2028, with operating profit expanding by a mid-teens annual growth rate over that period.

Shares of Adidas were last seen 6.7% lower, notching a fresh 52-week low.

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Sportswear giant Adidas drops 8% after profit guidance disappoints

Adidas shares have almost halved over the past year.

Coming into Wednesday trading, Adidas shares had fallen about 43% over the past 12 months as investors remain skeptical about Adidas’ future.

The growth prospects of the global sportswear industry, characterized by excess supply and changing consumer preferences in China, represent another pressure point for investors. 

Country peer Puma and bigger U.S. competitor Nike have faced similar woes and are also in the midst of a turnaround. In October, Nike’s CEO told CNBC it would “take a while” for the company to return to profitable growth.

Adidas on Wednesday also extended CEO Gulden’s contract until 2030, in an apparent vote of confidence in his strategy.

Gulden took the reins in 2023 to steady the company after its split with rapper Ye, formerly known as Kanye West, over antisemitic comments and triggering a crisis for Adidas, which had been relying on sales of the Yeezy sneaker line that Ye fronted.


Travel stocks sink after thousands of flights grounded following Iran strikes


A display board shows canceled flights to Dubai and Doha amid regional airspace closures at Noi Bai International Airport, amid the U.S.-Israel conflict with Iran, in Hanoi, Vietnam, March 2, 2026. Picture taken with a mobile phone.

Thinh Nguyen | Reuters

Airline and travel stocks fell Monday after airspace closures throughout the Middle East forced carriers to cancel thousands of flights, disrupting trips as far as Brazil and the Philippines.

United Airlines, which has the most international exposure of the U.S. carriers, was down 6% in premarket trading. Service to Tel Aviv, Israel, is one of the airline’s most profitable routes, but airlines were also was forced to pause flights to Dubai, in the United Arab Emirates, one of the busiest airport hubs in the world.

Dubai is a home base for airline Emirates.

Shares of Delta Air Lines and American Airlines were also each off about 6%. Flights through the Middle East were grounded including to destinations like Tel Aviv.

Other carriers like Southwest Airlines, which is more U.S.-focused, had smaller stock moves but shares still fell as investors assessed a possible run-up in oil prices. Fuel is generally airlines’ biggest cost after labor.

Hotel chains also fell, with Marriott International and Hilton Worldwide Holdings down.

International travel has been a bright spot in the travel sector. In January, international air travel demand jumped 5.9% from a year ago while domestic flight demand was nearly flat, the International Air Transport Association, an airline industry group, said in a report on Monday.

Read more about military conflicts’ impact on commercial flights