Backed by picture-perfect coconut trees and fringed by white, golden and red sands frequented by nesting turtles, Sri Lanka’s beaches are utterly idyllic. It’s why, after arriving in the country two years ago, I’ve made it my mission to hunt down some of the most beautiful.

I’ve travelled by local bus, car and tuk-tuk from deserted stretches of sand in Jaffna in the north – which are dotted with wooden, brightly painted fishing boats – to Kalkuda and Pasikuda in the east, with their calm cerulean waters, all the way to the tourist-loved south coast, where over 30 beaches vie for attention. It’s here where the majority of travellers visiting Sri Lanka spend their time.

Ahangama, Weligama, Unawatuna and Hiriketiya dominate itineraries due to a high concentration of bars and cafes that appeal to the Insta-crowds. But if, like me, you’d rather wander deserted beaches and get to know the people who call the island home, rather than fellow Brits, there’s one place I make a beeline for: the tiny beachside village of Madiha.

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Tucked away off the main south coastal road, and sandwiched between the towns of Kamburugamuwa and Polhena, Madiha often gets overlooked due to its diminutive size, yet it’s a place I love to linger. There are just enough cafes and restaurants for a week-long holiday; a safe swimming spot sits mere footsteps away from the village; the surf is good; and out of peak season (April to November), there’s hardly any tourists around. To me it is perfect.

Here’s what to do, see, eat and drink in this pretty and low-key beach destination.

What to do

Aside from strolling the village lanes, reading a good book on the beach (currently Bread of Angels by Patti Smith) and getting to know the locals, there’s plenty I like to see and do in this sleepy tropical idyll.

One of my favourite places to stop by is Samudratheera Maha Viharaya, an incredible Buddhist temple perched on the clifftop overlooking the village, and presided over by head monk Vineetha. Curious travellers can visit both the grounds and temple to catch a glimpse of the ancient paintings and carvings inside. Be sure to pass on a cash donation to Vineetha, or any of the monks, to help with the upkeep of the temple if you can.

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On the beach almost directly below are a couple of manmade rock pools where bathers can safely swim, or relax away from the rip tides. Or if you prefer to get your kicks riding the waves, make a beeline for Madiha Surf Point, where consistent waves are the stuff of dreams for more experienced surfers. Sabine Surf and Cafe can hook you up with boards and instructors.

If you’re visiting Madiha at the right time (peak season is February to July), you might even catch a glimpse of turtles hatching out of the sand. I spotted three tiny babies making their way to the ocean one May evening at dusk, and there wasn’t another person on the entire beach. Pure magic.

Where to eat

After visiting every restaurant and cafe in the Madiha area, there are a handful that I always return to, and all are locally-owned.

With no website or Instagram account, family-run Sara Kitchen is the place to go for home-style rice and curry. Located a five-minute walk from the junction on the Matara Main Road, opposite Cargills Food City, it has a daily changing menu of delicious curries – from pumpkin and beetroot to dal and beans, which are served with red rice, popadums and a cutlet (which is like a deep-fried croquette). Expect to pay as little as £4 for a meal and a soft drink.

Sand Bank is favourite for relaxed light bites, rice and curry or an arrack cocktail – made with the must-try Sri Lankan spirit that is distilled from the sap collected from coconut flower buds. The venue occasionally hosts local live music acts, and is typically open year-round.

It’s worth noting that some south coast businesses choose to close between June and October, relocating to Arrugam Bay on the east coast of the island due to seasonal rains.

For something a bit more upscale, Zephyr Ceylon is one of my favourite beachside restaurants in the entire country. To get there, I like to walk all the way along the beach (you may have to scramble over some rocks depending on the tide) before securing a table on the sand. Meals are always fresh and delicious, such as prawn curry and miso mahi mahi. The cocktails are standout too, and include delights like the “Soursop Sling” and “Lankan Ricecolada”, blended with pandan-infused arrack, mango, rice milk, and kithul treacle.

Sri Lanka’s homemade cakes are a true delight and the ideal afternoon pick-me-up alongside a cup of milk tea. Some of my favourite creations can be picked up from Walgama Bakehouse on the main road to Matara – look out for the jam cupcakes and brightly coloured Swiss roll swirls.

Having recently relocated from Unawatuna to Madiha, Jungle Kade by Drunken Lankan is the place to go for something a little stronger. The cocktails celebrate Sri Lanka’s natural bounty. From innovative savoury sips inspired by beloved Sri Lankan dishes to drinks which use unique ingredients such as amberella fruit and lunumiris (a homemade chilli paste), there’s something for every taste.

Where to stay

There’s something for every budget in Madiha, from cosy homestays to luxe suites with their own private plunge pools.

Madiha Hill

Madiha Hill offers four individual suites which sit on a lush green hillside. Some have ocean views, all are well-designed, and breakfast is included.

From £240 per night.

Co-Living Villa

If you’re on a lower budget, Co-Living Villa has just five bedrooms which can each be booked for one, making it ideal for solo travellers.

Rooms start from £30 per night for a two-night minimum stay.

Meraki

If a full-size swimming pool is on your must-have list, Meraki, which is a short walk away in the neighbouring village of Polhena, is the dream stay. With just eight airy bedrooms, a yoga deck where daily classes take place, and an on-site cafe, it’s the ideal place to while away sunny days.

Double bedrooms from £111 per night (two-night minimum stay).

How to do it

Sri Lankan Airlines flies to Colombo Bandaranaike International Airport from London Heathrow direct, with flight times of around 10 hours 45 minutes. Prices start at £798 return.

Madiha is a two-and-a-half-hour drive from the airport, along Sri Lanka’s Southern Expressway.